Paris Finale - 25 July

C'est tout. Le Tour 2010 est fini!

Contador is the winner of the yellow jersey, Pettachi the green jersey, Schleck the white jersey and Anthony Charteau the polka dot jersey. And Cavendish showed what an incomparable turn of speed he has to win the final dash to the line and today's stage.

We awoke in Bordeaux at 5.30am this morning to catch the TGV fast train to Paris. After bundling bikes and luggage on board the train (we had the whole train chartered for 380 tour company guests), we departed on time and arrived in Paris 3.5 hours later. Our Garmin tracking devices measured the top speed of the train at around 260km/h.

From the train, we jumped another bus to the Champs Elysees and went our separate ways for the day to watch the final stage. I had a grandstand seat 150m from the finish line and opposite a big video screen.

The build-up to the rider's arrival was slow but lively. People gathered all along the boulevard, sampling the paraphenalia and eats stalls and waiting eagerly for things to start happening. Others hung from balconies overlooking the course.

By 2.30pm the caravan arrived for one last time - a pulsating, blaring, cavorting snake of floats, cars and trucks all selling their sponsor's message. Then, the riders pushed off for the 103km ride from Longjameau, very slowly at first and gradually picking up speed as they approached the city. This was a day when the riders start happy and relaxed, talking to and congratulating each other, respecting the placings as is and saving one last burst for an 8-lap 45km charge around the Champs Elysees circuit.

When they finally rode into the Paris centre around 4pm, the crowd had swelled and everybody rose to their feet to applaud and yell encouragement at the passing riders. The pace was on - they flashed past at around 60km/h. Soon a breakaway group got away from the peloton and put 23 seconds between them. But the peloton responded at this level and held the gap, then as the laps mounted gradually brought it down.

With one lap to go, the breakaway was swallowed by the peloton and it was a question of who could marshall the best sprint to the line. With 400m to go, Cavendish lined up behind three other riders as they motored down the Champs Elysee. Then quick as a flash he darted right, turned on in incredible burst of speed and floated past Pettachi in the final 150m - right before our eyes. On a dead flat, these riders reach speeds of over 70km/hr as they slipstream and then surge as a group.

As the awards ceremonies wound down and the crowds started drifting away, we caught the lazy sunlight of late afternoon on the magnificent Paris architecture which sets the back drop for this race. The Seine, its bridges, the palaces and the statues. It was a great way to sign off on a personal journey that began 12 months ago, took me half way round the world and allowed me to pursue my personal tour goals of riding 1000kms in France, climbing 10,000 metres and reaching the top of three high category climbs. Viva Le Tour!

Bourdeaux Time Trial - 24 July

The penultimate day of Le Tour has arrived! A 52km time trial over a flat course from Bordeaux to Paulliac and back. With a rider being released from the start gate every 2.5 minutes, we watched the early riders work their way through the streets of Bourdeaux on the first part of the course. A police motorcycle escort, followed by a rider, followed by a support car. The gendarmes on every street corner were jumping on anyone getting near the road. Spectators were out early in bunches along the route but not crowded.

In Rue Vital Carles we found a cafe facing the road's edge and watched the riders pass in their intervals. Some were working hard (they had some sort of mission for the day even though bringing up the rear of the field), others were just turning the legs over (the race was already over for them). We saw Oscar Freire and then Cancellara pass, before moving on.

Our plan had been to ride out to around the half-way mark of the course (outside Bordeaux), relax there a while and then come back in for the finish. But it was all too hard to move with the city roads in lock-down and the effects of constant cycling left us feeling shagged. So we took the easy option and headed back to the hotel. Some of us spent time taking in parts of the city on foot, while others watched TV. I managed to fit in some much needed sleep.

By the time the stage got to its climax, Schleck and Contador were on the course at the same time. Schleck started eating into the 8 second deficit he had with Contador, but after the half-way point began to lag, only to end up more than 50 seconds back. He had ridden well by comparison, but spent his best in the early part and couldn't peg back Contador's advantage. Contador was not as strong in time trialling as others in the field today - he finished 43rd. But it matters not, he has the yellow jersey and tomorrow is a celebration ride into Paris with all riders respecting the standings. Contador is the 2010 TDF winner, although far from popular with the crowds and other riders. Some suspect drugs, others question his sportsmanship.

In between following the race, I spent some time wandering the streets taking pictures and sampling shops. I found my way into the Musee Des Beaux Arts and took in an exhibition of French and Dutch paintings over the period from the fifteenth to early twentieth century. The paintings had strong religious, romantic and some impressionist influences - altogether very profound and provoking. Another day in France comes to a close.

Bourdeaux Transition - 23 July

Today began with a comedy of errors leaving the Pyrenees . After farewelling most of my ride buddies for the past 10 days, we were due to head to a ‘feed’station to watch the riders pass through and then ride the remaining distance to Bordeaux.

Most people on our tour group were heading back to Paris by bus and then on home or to other travel destinations. A happy half dozen of us and the diehards in other like tours were grouped together for the last few days to travel as a unit. It took 3 hours to collect bikes and baggage from 4 hotels as we took every wrong turn and got stuck in every traffic jam in Lourdes. We needed a miracle from the healing waters of this quirky city to get us on the road and back on schedule.

It was 1.30pm by the time we got to our jump off point at Sabres where we waited for the tour riders to pass through the 'feed station'. Then our riding could begin. The terrain was flat, the temperature cool, but the wind was in our face most of the way. Not a very interesting ride, so we gunned it as best we could - 108 km in 4 hrs flat with only one stop for 5 mins.

The last part of the ride into Bordeaux was brilliant as this is a city with spectacular stone buildings and architecture and lovely streetscapes. Thanks to Adam's Garmin navigator we found our way through countless turns and roundabouts to our hotel.

The pro stage rolled into Bordeaux a few hours before us. Cavendish won the sprint again and there was no change in the GC rankings.

Tourmalet Finish - 22 July

Today will be remembered as the ‘duel of the Tourmalet’. Schleck vs Contador, Contador vs Schleck. They crossed the finish line together after 5hr 3min of riding head to head. Contador took Schleck’s wheel most of the way up the 21km climb to the Tourmalet finish and only made one brief surge for a break away. Schleck showed he was Contador’s match on this, the toughest, of mountains today.

But alas, he has no hope of taking the yellow jersey now with only a flat ride and a time trial to come. The title will go to Contador on the podium in Paris – barring an unforeseen catastrophe.

The crowds on the route and final climb were as crazy as ever – and remarkably resilient for the cold, wet conditions. Most people in the final 15kms had been on the mountain for at least 3 days and some as long as a week.

As the tour heads for its denouement in Bourdeaux and then final transition to Paris, most of the suspense has gone but the caravan, hype and riding continues. Armstrong looks like bowing out, so this will be a bit of a testimonial to him over the last few days.

We had a rest today – no riding, especially because it was so wet and opted to watch the duel on TV. It was humbling to see the riders go over some of the same climbs and through the same towns as we have in the past few days. Humbling - because they are true athletes and ride at such a phenomenal speed and output rating hour after hour. Then back up and do the same thing again the next day, no matter what the weather. We are fortunate to ride in their shadow and share in just a bit of that reflected glory.

Col D'Aspin - 21 July

Woke to find fog and grey skies over the Pyrenees - and omens of rain. It was rest day for the tour riders and we were free to ride as we please.

I spent a lazy day around Bagneres-de-Bignorres and headed out mid afternoon for an 85km, 1200m climb and ride to Col D'Aspin in a circuit taking in several beautiful valleys. Spent some time in the village of Mauvezin exploring a 15th century castle and restored fort.

By the time I got to the 12km climb up the col it was getting darker and rain threatening. I lumbered up the mountain (part of yesterday's stage where Lance led a charge) until I got to the 9km marker and rested. At this point the rain came and I soon found myself climbing the last k's in thunder and lightning with thick fog and hardly any light. I finally made the summit around 7.15pm and got a photo from a passing car. In broken Swedish, the occupants offered me a lift down the mountain but I bravely (foolishly) declined to their puzzlement.

I had to get off the moutain and fast as the rain was cold and I only had a wind jacket and arm warmers to fend off the weather. It was getting dark and an endless procession of cars was heading over the col for next day's stage finish on the Tourmalet. But easier said than done. Water was streaming down the road and my brakes were next to useless. So I crept down the 15km of steep descent between 20-30k/hour trying to keep my bike on a straight line and avoid any traffic.

By the time the descent slackened and the road straightened my hands were freezing (I reached for my bottle and couldn't feel any sensation at all) and my body start to shake involuntarily. I tried pedalling but kept hitting dangerous speeds and had to slow to a safer speed, which only meant getting colder. The rain kept coming and eventually I hit St Marie de Campan on the main road to Tourmalet. Now I could accelarate and put the final 12km behind me as fast as possible.

By the time I hit the flats into Bagneres-de-Bigorre the rain finally stopped and I found a gear I didn't know I had. In my big ring, I churned along at 45km/hr as I tried to generate some heat and get back in time for dinner.

At 8.30pm I got to 'La Residence' and half staggered into the dining room, wet to the bone and looking a little worse for wear. The diners erupted in a collective cheer, half glad to see my late return (dinner was at 8.00) and half bemused to see my washed out state.

I was suffering from exposure by this stage and it took an hour of food, shower and warm clothes to get my inner core stabilised again. Then off to bed. It stormed all night, but I had nightmares of fighting bushfires! All in a day's riding in France.

Tourmalet - 20 July

And then there was Tourmalet! Giant of the Pyrnees, highest and longest climb of the tour, and 100 years since it was first attempted on Le Tour. What a brilliant day it turned out to be.

We peeled out of our guest house at 7.30am to head for the summit before the gendarmes closed the roads for Le Tour at 11.30am. Tourmalet was 32km and 1800m of climbing away - occasionally revealing its massive peak between the passing scenery. Village after village went by and the going seemed good. But I had been warned! Expect it to get harder. And after 15km, it kicked up another gear - the first 8.5% incline. And then after 22km, it was mostly about 10%. Tourmalet is a true moutain - the higher it gets, the steeper it gets and the more it hurts.

Eventually the alpine village at 5km came into reach and led on to 'the Mongine' - the final cruel switchbacks leading to the summit. Without any great authority, I decided mongine was french for mongrel because that's what the climb felt like at that stage. And at last the final crawl to the summit. Hooray! And a picture to confirm the moment.

The crowds along the way, especially the last 5km were incredible. In parts sitting cheeck to jowl along the road in front of their caravans and yelling or just watching and talking, taking in the atomosphere. Every now and then someone in the crowd would pick you out and yell something, usually in french, presumably encouraging and you try to smile and pick up the cadence a little. Only to fall back shortly thereafter near exhausted!

After recuperating at the summit, I found a great switchback view within walking distance to camp out and wait for the pro riders. From where I stood, you could look down half a dozen lazy curves and 5km of valley to see the riders approaching. Lance Armstrong chose today to launch a brave attack and lead the charge up the Tourmalet, only to get over-run in the final sprint of the day.

When the final riders passed, I joined up with a Kiwi buddy to make a super fast 30km descent down the other side of the Touramet to Anglese-Gorasz and then on to Lourdes and a final closing of the circuit back to Bagneres-de-Bigore. By the time we reached home, we had 110k on the clock and been in the saddle for around 5.5hrs. A big dinner and a few wines were the only thing between me and a good sleep.

Port de Bales - 19 July

After a self-enforced rest day, we set out for our first day in the Pyrenees. Its 100 years since Le Tour started coming here. A nice resonance with the centenary of the ATO this year - the world is a different place than back then.

The main peak, Port de Bales, is yet another ‘high category’ climb. It stands at around 1750m with a 19km climb to the top and some very steep sections reaching towards 15%.
Our ride was 4hr 40min over a distance of 88km and climbing two major cols. We began with a climb of the Cat 2 Col de Aries and then on to Port de Bales via the village of Maleon-Barosse. Unfortunately the gendarmes closed the road to cyclists around 1.30pm and I was forced to be stop 6km from the top and be a spectator for the rest of the afternoon.

After a couple of baking hours in the sun, the pro riders eventually came through around 4pm. We amused ourselves in the interim by re-hydrating and collecting the throwaways from the travelling TDF caravan. Contador and Schleck were close together again on the col in the second group but Schleck lost his chain and precious momentum on the final stages of the climb, only to see the yellow jersey pass to Contador. He will be hard pressed to get it back now.

After the stage passed, we descended back to our bus pick up point and drove to the picturesque town of Bagneres-de-Bigore, nestled in the Pyrenees. This will be our home base for the next four nights. Its a place to die for with its backdrop of mountains, rolling green hills, fascinating villages and 1930s bohemian/boarding home feel.

Toulouse - 18 July

After 7 days straight of riding, I decided I needed a rest day. Limited my riding to 25k recovery spin along the Midi canal in Toulouse - part of the longest canal system in Europe. Lined with people living in recycled barges of all sizes, shapes and condition! Not sure the tax man or health inspector owns this problem.

We stayed at a hotel on the edge of La Place du Capitole. This is the premiere public square in Toulouse and is rich in the history of French monarchy (XVIII siecle) and the French revolution. You could almost sense the ghosts of great public spectacles past. And some wonderful architecture surrounding the square.

Managed to fit in a big afternoon sleep for the first time. I needed it. And now on to the Pyrenees.

Mt Ventoux - 17 July

Mt Ventoux was our third 'High Category' climb of the tour in 5 days. What was I thinking? I'd never attempted a single one of these before.

Another icon of Le Tour, Mt Ventoux rises 1910m from the plains of Avignon and dominates the surrounding landscape - its summit beacon visible at a great distance. Many a tour defining moment has happened on this mountain, not the least when the British rider Tommy Simpson died of a heart attack 1.5km from the summit. The circumstances are not the best advertisement for cycling - he was dehydrated (from diarrohea and not eating), had alcohol and amphetamines in his blood, and was last seen swerving widly across the road before collapsing.

I, on the other hand, heeded the lessons of good cycling preparation and was well hydrated, with only a hint of fine French red wine from the night before, no stimulants, a tummy full of food and bowels intact. The weather was hot - again - and humid, but we got away around 8.30am near the village of Bedoin at the base of Ventoux before the temp could get to its expected high above 30 degrees.

About 2 hrs 17min later I crested the summit having covered 21.4k with 1600m of ascending, average speed of 9.3km/h, average cadence of 59rpm and an average heart rate of 144bpm. By ride's end I had chewed about 1630 calories. The first 4kms are relatively easy; followed by a gut busting 12km through 8-10 degrees of unending forest road; past Le Chalet Renard rest stop; and then up the final 6km grind to the summit - with a nice little 15% incline kicker for the last 500 metres to test out your legs.

It was a great feeling to get to the top and enjoy the sights, the high fives and wonderful soft lolly stalls which do a roaring trade up there. Then on to the half hour, 22km descent to Malaucene with a top speed of 80.3km! Wow!

The day finished with a long bus ride to our next accommodation in Toulouse and a wonderful 'al fresco' dining experience of cassaulet and St Emillion red.

For the record, the pro tour was on a different route and Vinokorouv won the stage with a solo finish in Revel.

Avignon - 16 July

While the pro riders headed for the cruel finish up the 16 degree climb to Mende aerodrome, we opted for a 3hr 15min,70km recovery spin in the Provencal countryside.

We rode from our base in Avignon to the tenth century, medieval town of Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Vaucluse means 'closed valley' and this picturesque village sits at road's end in the shadow of ragged cliffs, ancient caves and the alluring Sorgue River. This place has character, ambience and history - as well as good coffee. The Romans were here in the third century and there is plenty of evidence of early Gallic settlement.

The Galas aqueduct (1855 - not Roman) just out of town was a highlight. I could end up with a collection of these shots!

When we woke this morning, our plan was to climb Mont Ventoux but a replacement bus couldn't haul our bikes to the drop off zone (our driver had a rest day and we couldn't use his bus). So, it was a nice change to soak things up at a more leisurely pace. One the way, I learned today that Petrarch, the Italian poet, climbed Ventoux in 1355 when this was unheard of and as as a consequence is credited with establishing 'alpinism'. An indirect lineage to the tour's fascination with mountains!

Back at the tour (which we were able to see on TV for the first time today), Contador made a stunning move on Schleck on the final climb and gained 10 seconds in the challenge for the yellow jersey. The Pyrenees beckon.

Borg-de-Valence - July 15

Today's ride began in Grenoble - we said 'au revoir' to the Alps - and ended in Valence, 112 kms away.

It was a 4.5 hour hard ride with over 1000 metres of climbing, including a 10 km, 6 degree climb up the Sassenage and into the gorge country. We had coffee in the inviting village of Villard-de-Lans and then raced through the 20km windy descent of the Gorges de la Bourne. The French resistance hid out here in WWII due to the narrow and unforgiving territory of overhangs, caves and deep gorges. Our lunch stop was the delightful St Nazaire-on-Royans where we sampled the french pastries and recovered.

We then pushed on to Valence finally hitting the city's outskirts by 2.15pm. Our last 15km took us directly on to the finishing section of the TDF stage. We pushed on at mighty pace partly because the people lined up for the tour finish were yelling 'allez,allez,allez' and partly because the gendarmes were eyeing us nervously through every checkpoint. They close off the tour road 2.5 hours before the ride arrives. Sure enough, just as we got into a 40km/hr wind-up they stopped us at the 2km sign and made us walk the rest of the way.

Anyway, we saw nearly the whole peloton arrive as one and charge down the final section of Valence. It was an awesome sight of speed and seething bike mania. Cavendish won the sprint (again), but Renshaw - his lead out man - got rubbed out from the tour for head-butting a rider in the final 300m surge to the line.

Tonight we have moved to the historic town of Avivgnon to prepare for another grueling, but fun day!

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Alpe D'Huez - 14 July

Alpe D'Huez - icon of the French Alps and legend of the tour! Ever since Lance Armstrong charged up the 13.9km, 1120m climb in 41 minutes, every keen cyclist has wanted to see how they fare in comparison. This is another 'High Category' climb and averages 7.7% gradient over its length (maxing at 12%).

So, while the tour riders were finding their way from Chambery to Gap in the southern alps, we chose to make an early start and try to beat the heat of the day. Didn't help as the temperature rose to over 35 degrees, was hot early and barely moderated with the altitude.

The ride has 21 switchbacks, numbered in reverse order as you climb and featuring the names of previous TDF stage champions. One picture here shows the view at turn #10 at about 6km up - where I stopped to cool down. You start in the village below and ascend a near vertical drop.
Around the 1 hr 30min mark I made the village summit and joined my ride buddies in some celebrations, a coffee, coke and a quick shop in the bike shop!

We then shovelled some lunch in after finding a restaurant a bit higher on the mountain and headed for an 'apres' climb to Col de Sarene at 1999m. This was closer to a goat track than a road and required my best mountain bike skills to stay upright. The Col gave way to a death defying descent of over 20 km. Half way down I checked my tyre rims and they were near molten. So I let the air pressure down on my tyres and found the going easier.

The final part of the ride took us on a main highway pass through tunnels, gorges and bridges back to the village of La Bourg d'Oisans - a round trip of 65km and 1800m of climbing over 3.5 hours.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Col de la Madeleine - 13 July

This is one of the big ones! Col de la Madelaine rates as a ‘High Category’ 25km, 1650m climb with an average gradient of 6.5% with parts that max out at 11.5%. The summit stands at 2000m above sea level and commands sweeping views of valleys north and south. It features lots of switchbacks, unrelenting pinches upwards and the occasional traverse. I made the summit just before 1pm after 2hrs 50 min riding. This left just enough time to descend back down the mountain before the gendarmes closed the road so we could watch the stage come through Bonneval (a tiny village 6km up the mountain).

Cadel was with the main chase group when he passed us but was in a world of hurt it seems with a fractured elbow. Having lost as many minutes today, he probably can’t get back into jersey contention. C’est Le Tour.

The atmosphere on the way up on the mountain was sensational especially the last 5 km which was packed with campervans and day trippers getting ready to cheer and party on. People helped us with water along the way because it was another hot day. Some parts of the road were totally painted over with signs and decorations; and people adding to it right up to the last minute. Madeleine was a huge grind to get there today but a great sense of achievement on my first HC climb.

Col de la Croix Fry - 12 July

It was rest day for the pros but not for us. We set off for a 100k ride to the Col de la Croiz Fry in the Alps. Our route took us along the beautiful Lake Annecy (imagine pristine blue water surrounded by jagged mountains and tree covered peaks) onto Faverges and then the climb of 1500m. The final section of 12km to the Col was 6-10 degrees. The temperature climbed too – 32 degrees. The view down the Manigod Valley was to die for, but then if you didn’t concentrate on the road ahead that was a certainty. Still acclimitasing to the heat, so it was a bit of a struggle but eventually made it to the summit. After lunching at a little restaurant on top, we descended for 30km at a fast pace through the ski town of Thornes and then Carusz. On the lower stretches we were in the big gears and holding 50-55km for long sections and racing the traffic. Lots of fun but exhausting by the time we hit the lake – 4hrs 30m later. The coffee stop in the little village of St Ferriol was a highlight. A photo would help but French bandwidth in the hotel can’t handle uploads! Fix this when we move on to Grenoble.

Sunday, July 11, 2010

Morzine-Avoriaz - 11 July

What a day to begin following the tour! Cadel gains the yellow jersey, Lance goes out backwards after crashing and we climb the final two summits and watch the leaders drama on the final climb. Our first climb of the day was the Col de la Ramaz, a 1200m 15 km slog at an average of 6.5%,. With the temperature touching 30 degrees, the sweat was pouring off after the first half hour. Fortunately the sublime alpine meadows, spectacular mountain vistas and endless spectators camped along the road, helped keep the mind focused. Then a crazy descent into Les Gets another short climb and the ski resort town of Morzine was in reach. A quick lunch hunched in the shade and then back on the bike for the stagger up Avoriaz, another 850m 15 km slog at 6.3% gradient. The fans lined the road most of the way up and most were in party mode, progressively getting more crazy towards the top. After descending a few k's, we found a good vantage point perched above a switchback to watch the race. It was 8pm by the time we made the hotel – tired but happy for a first day’s hit out. [Note my picture of Lance!]

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

The Grand Depart - 8 July

And now for the Grand Depart...the pros already have 4 days of bone crunching, lung busting, high cadence mania behind them, but now I'm about to join the fray with my own depart. After 12 months of prep, over 6,000 kms of cycling and the exploration of many peaks (Charlottes, Buller, Lofty, Kangaroo Valley, Fitz, Honeysuckle, Corin, Black Mtn and Ainslie to name a few), its off to the high climbs of the French Alps and then the Pyrenees. In the process, I've managed to lose 9.5kg and gain some climbing legs. Many thanks to all my riding buddies along the way and my 'support' team at home and work. Many have passed on best wishes and I am inspired to give it my best shot. Stay posted for regular updates on the life of a 'domestique' on the alternative Tour De France.

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