Col D'Aspin - 21 July

Woke to find fog and grey skies over the Pyrenees - and omens of rain. It was rest day for the tour riders and we were free to ride as we please.

I spent a lazy day around Bagneres-de-Bignorres and headed out mid afternoon for an 85km, 1200m climb and ride to Col D'Aspin in a circuit taking in several beautiful valleys. Spent some time in the village of Mauvezin exploring a 15th century castle and restored fort.

By the time I got to the 12km climb up the col it was getting darker and rain threatening. I lumbered up the mountain (part of yesterday's stage where Lance led a charge) until I got to the 9km marker and rested. At this point the rain came and I soon found myself climbing the last k's in thunder and lightning with thick fog and hardly any light. I finally made the summit around 7.15pm and got a photo from a passing car. In broken Swedish, the occupants offered me a lift down the mountain but I bravely (foolishly) declined to their puzzlement.

I had to get off the moutain and fast as the rain was cold and I only had a wind jacket and arm warmers to fend off the weather. It was getting dark and an endless procession of cars was heading over the col for next day's stage finish on the Tourmalet. But easier said than done. Water was streaming down the road and my brakes were next to useless. So I crept down the 15km of steep descent between 20-30k/hour trying to keep my bike on a straight line and avoid any traffic.

By the time the descent slackened and the road straightened my hands were freezing (I reached for my bottle and couldn't feel any sensation at all) and my body start to shake involuntarily. I tried pedalling but kept hitting dangerous speeds and had to slow to a safer speed, which only meant getting colder. The rain kept coming and eventually I hit St Marie de Campan on the main road to Tourmalet. Now I could accelarate and put the final 12km behind me as fast as possible.

By the time I hit the flats into Bagneres-de-Bigorre the rain finally stopped and I found a gear I didn't know I had. In my big ring, I churned along at 45km/hr as I tried to generate some heat and get back in time for dinner.

At 8.30pm I got to 'La Residence' and half staggered into the dining room, wet to the bone and looking a little worse for wear. The diners erupted in a collective cheer, half glad to see my late return (dinner was at 8.00) and half bemused to see my washed out state.

I was suffering from exposure by this stage and it took an hour of food, shower and warm clothes to get my inner core stabilised again. Then off to bed. It stormed all night, but I had nightmares of fighting bushfires! All in a day's riding in France.