Paris Finale - 25 July

C'est tout. Le Tour 2010 est fini!

Contador is the winner of the yellow jersey, Pettachi the green jersey, Schleck the white jersey and Anthony Charteau the polka dot jersey. And Cavendish showed what an incomparable turn of speed he has to win the final dash to the line and today's stage.

We awoke in Bordeaux at 5.30am this morning to catch the TGV fast train to Paris. After bundling bikes and luggage on board the train (we had the whole train chartered for 380 tour company guests), we departed on time and arrived in Paris 3.5 hours later. Our Garmin tracking devices measured the top speed of the train at around 260km/h.

From the train, we jumped another bus to the Champs Elysees and went our separate ways for the day to watch the final stage. I had a grandstand seat 150m from the finish line and opposite a big video screen.

The build-up to the rider's arrival was slow but lively. People gathered all along the boulevard, sampling the paraphenalia and eats stalls and waiting eagerly for things to start happening. Others hung from balconies overlooking the course.

By 2.30pm the caravan arrived for one last time - a pulsating, blaring, cavorting snake of floats, cars and trucks all selling their sponsor's message. Then, the riders pushed off for the 103km ride from Longjameau, very slowly at first and gradually picking up speed as they approached the city. This was a day when the riders start happy and relaxed, talking to and congratulating each other, respecting the placings as is and saving one last burst for an 8-lap 45km charge around the Champs Elysees circuit.

When they finally rode into the Paris centre around 4pm, the crowd had swelled and everybody rose to their feet to applaud and yell encouragement at the passing riders. The pace was on - they flashed past at around 60km/h. Soon a breakaway group got away from the peloton and put 23 seconds between them. But the peloton responded at this level and held the gap, then as the laps mounted gradually brought it down.

With one lap to go, the breakaway was swallowed by the peloton and it was a question of who could marshall the best sprint to the line. With 400m to go, Cavendish lined up behind three other riders as they motored down the Champs Elysee. Then quick as a flash he darted right, turned on in incredible burst of speed and floated past Pettachi in the final 150m - right before our eyes. On a dead flat, these riders reach speeds of over 70km/hr as they slipstream and then surge as a group.

As the awards ceremonies wound down and the crowds started drifting away, we caught the lazy sunlight of late afternoon on the magnificent Paris architecture which sets the back drop for this race. The Seine, its bridges, the palaces and the statues. It was a great way to sign off on a personal journey that began 12 months ago, took me half way round the world and allowed me to pursue my personal tour goals of riding 1000kms in France, climbing 10,000 metres and reaching the top of three high category climbs. Viva Le Tour!

Bourdeaux Time Trial - 24 July

The penultimate day of Le Tour has arrived! A 52km time trial over a flat course from Bordeaux to Paulliac and back. With a rider being released from the start gate every 2.5 minutes, we watched the early riders work their way through the streets of Bourdeaux on the first part of the course. A police motorcycle escort, followed by a rider, followed by a support car. The gendarmes on every street corner were jumping on anyone getting near the road. Spectators were out early in bunches along the route but not crowded.

In Rue Vital Carles we found a cafe facing the road's edge and watched the riders pass in their intervals. Some were working hard (they had some sort of mission for the day even though bringing up the rear of the field), others were just turning the legs over (the race was already over for them). We saw Oscar Freire and then Cancellara pass, before moving on.

Our plan had been to ride out to around the half-way mark of the course (outside Bordeaux), relax there a while and then come back in for the finish. But it was all too hard to move with the city roads in lock-down and the effects of constant cycling left us feeling shagged. So we took the easy option and headed back to the hotel. Some of us spent time taking in parts of the city on foot, while others watched TV. I managed to fit in some much needed sleep.

By the time the stage got to its climax, Schleck and Contador were on the course at the same time. Schleck started eating into the 8 second deficit he had with Contador, but after the half-way point began to lag, only to end up more than 50 seconds back. He had ridden well by comparison, but spent his best in the early part and couldn't peg back Contador's advantage. Contador was not as strong in time trialling as others in the field today - he finished 43rd. But it matters not, he has the yellow jersey and tomorrow is a celebration ride into Paris with all riders respecting the standings. Contador is the 2010 TDF winner, although far from popular with the crowds and other riders. Some suspect drugs, others question his sportsmanship.

In between following the race, I spent some time wandering the streets taking pictures and sampling shops. I found my way into the Musee Des Beaux Arts and took in an exhibition of French and Dutch paintings over the period from the fifteenth to early twentieth century. The paintings had strong religious, romantic and some impressionist influences - altogether very profound and provoking. Another day in France comes to a close.

Bourdeaux Transition - 23 July

Today began with a comedy of errors leaving the Pyrenees . After farewelling most of my ride buddies for the past 10 days, we were due to head to a ‘feed’station to watch the riders pass through and then ride the remaining distance to Bordeaux.

Most people on our tour group were heading back to Paris by bus and then on home or to other travel destinations. A happy half dozen of us and the diehards in other like tours were grouped together for the last few days to travel as a unit. It took 3 hours to collect bikes and baggage from 4 hotels as we took every wrong turn and got stuck in every traffic jam in Lourdes. We needed a miracle from the healing waters of this quirky city to get us on the road and back on schedule.

It was 1.30pm by the time we got to our jump off point at Sabres where we waited for the tour riders to pass through the 'feed station'. Then our riding could begin. The terrain was flat, the temperature cool, but the wind was in our face most of the way. Not a very interesting ride, so we gunned it as best we could - 108 km in 4 hrs flat with only one stop for 5 mins.

The last part of the ride into Bordeaux was brilliant as this is a city with spectacular stone buildings and architecture and lovely streetscapes. Thanks to Adam's Garmin navigator we found our way through countless turns and roundabouts to our hotel.

The pro stage rolled into Bordeaux a few hours before us. Cavendish won the sprint again and there was no change in the GC rankings.

Tourmalet Finish - 22 July

Today will be remembered as the ‘duel of the Tourmalet’. Schleck vs Contador, Contador vs Schleck. They crossed the finish line together after 5hr 3min of riding head to head. Contador took Schleck’s wheel most of the way up the 21km climb to the Tourmalet finish and only made one brief surge for a break away. Schleck showed he was Contador’s match on this, the toughest, of mountains today.

But alas, he has no hope of taking the yellow jersey now with only a flat ride and a time trial to come. The title will go to Contador on the podium in Paris – barring an unforeseen catastrophe.

The crowds on the route and final climb were as crazy as ever – and remarkably resilient for the cold, wet conditions. Most people in the final 15kms had been on the mountain for at least 3 days and some as long as a week.

As the tour heads for its denouement in Bourdeaux and then final transition to Paris, most of the suspense has gone but the caravan, hype and riding continues. Armstrong looks like bowing out, so this will be a bit of a testimonial to him over the last few days.

We had a rest today – no riding, especially because it was so wet and opted to watch the duel on TV. It was humbling to see the riders go over some of the same climbs and through the same towns as we have in the past few days. Humbling - because they are true athletes and ride at such a phenomenal speed and output rating hour after hour. Then back up and do the same thing again the next day, no matter what the weather. We are fortunate to ride in their shadow and share in just a bit of that reflected glory.

Col D'Aspin - 21 July

Woke to find fog and grey skies over the Pyrenees - and omens of rain. It was rest day for the tour riders and we were free to ride as we please.

I spent a lazy day around Bagneres-de-Bignorres and headed out mid afternoon for an 85km, 1200m climb and ride to Col D'Aspin in a circuit taking in several beautiful valleys. Spent some time in the village of Mauvezin exploring a 15th century castle and restored fort.

By the time I got to the 12km climb up the col it was getting darker and rain threatening. I lumbered up the mountain (part of yesterday's stage where Lance led a charge) until I got to the 9km marker and rested. At this point the rain came and I soon found myself climbing the last k's in thunder and lightning with thick fog and hardly any light. I finally made the summit around 7.15pm and got a photo from a passing car. In broken Swedish, the occupants offered me a lift down the mountain but I bravely (foolishly) declined to their puzzlement.

I had to get off the moutain and fast as the rain was cold and I only had a wind jacket and arm warmers to fend off the weather. It was getting dark and an endless procession of cars was heading over the col for next day's stage finish on the Tourmalet. But easier said than done. Water was streaming down the road and my brakes were next to useless. So I crept down the 15km of steep descent between 20-30k/hour trying to keep my bike on a straight line and avoid any traffic.

By the time the descent slackened and the road straightened my hands were freezing (I reached for my bottle and couldn't feel any sensation at all) and my body start to shake involuntarily. I tried pedalling but kept hitting dangerous speeds and had to slow to a safer speed, which only meant getting colder. The rain kept coming and eventually I hit St Marie de Campan on the main road to Tourmalet. Now I could accelarate and put the final 12km behind me as fast as possible.

By the time I hit the flats into Bagneres-de-Bigorre the rain finally stopped and I found a gear I didn't know I had. In my big ring, I churned along at 45km/hr as I tried to generate some heat and get back in time for dinner.

At 8.30pm I got to 'La Residence' and half staggered into the dining room, wet to the bone and looking a little worse for wear. The diners erupted in a collective cheer, half glad to see my late return (dinner was at 8.00) and half bemused to see my washed out state.

I was suffering from exposure by this stage and it took an hour of food, shower and warm clothes to get my inner core stabilised again. Then off to bed. It stormed all night, but I had nightmares of fighting bushfires! All in a day's riding in France.

Tourmalet - 20 July

And then there was Tourmalet! Giant of the Pyrnees, highest and longest climb of the tour, and 100 years since it was first attempted on Le Tour. What a brilliant day it turned out to be.

We peeled out of our guest house at 7.30am to head for the summit before the gendarmes closed the roads for Le Tour at 11.30am. Tourmalet was 32km and 1800m of climbing away - occasionally revealing its massive peak between the passing scenery. Village after village went by and the going seemed good. But I had been warned! Expect it to get harder. And after 15km, it kicked up another gear - the first 8.5% incline. And then after 22km, it was mostly about 10%. Tourmalet is a true moutain - the higher it gets, the steeper it gets and the more it hurts.

Eventually the alpine village at 5km came into reach and led on to 'the Mongine' - the final cruel switchbacks leading to the summit. Without any great authority, I decided mongine was french for mongrel because that's what the climb felt like at that stage. And at last the final crawl to the summit. Hooray! And a picture to confirm the moment.

The crowds along the way, especially the last 5km were incredible. In parts sitting cheeck to jowl along the road in front of their caravans and yelling or just watching and talking, taking in the atomosphere. Every now and then someone in the crowd would pick you out and yell something, usually in french, presumably encouraging and you try to smile and pick up the cadence a little. Only to fall back shortly thereafter near exhausted!

After recuperating at the summit, I found a great switchback view within walking distance to camp out and wait for the pro riders. From where I stood, you could look down half a dozen lazy curves and 5km of valley to see the riders approaching. Lance Armstrong chose today to launch a brave attack and lead the charge up the Tourmalet, only to get over-run in the final sprint of the day.

When the final riders passed, I joined up with a Kiwi buddy to make a super fast 30km descent down the other side of the Touramet to Anglese-Gorasz and then on to Lourdes and a final closing of the circuit back to Bagneres-de-Bigore. By the time we reached home, we had 110k on the clock and been in the saddle for around 5.5hrs. A big dinner and a few wines were the only thing between me and a good sleep.

Port de Bales - 19 July

After a self-enforced rest day, we set out for our first day in the Pyrenees. Its 100 years since Le Tour started coming here. A nice resonance with the centenary of the ATO this year - the world is a different place than back then.

The main peak, Port de Bales, is yet another ‘high category’ climb. It stands at around 1750m with a 19km climb to the top and some very steep sections reaching towards 15%.
Our ride was 4hr 40min over a distance of 88km and climbing two major cols. We began with a climb of the Cat 2 Col de Aries and then on to Port de Bales via the village of Maleon-Barosse. Unfortunately the gendarmes closed the road to cyclists around 1.30pm and I was forced to be stop 6km from the top and be a spectator for the rest of the afternoon.

After a couple of baking hours in the sun, the pro riders eventually came through around 4pm. We amused ourselves in the interim by re-hydrating and collecting the throwaways from the travelling TDF caravan. Contador and Schleck were close together again on the col in the second group but Schleck lost his chain and precious momentum on the final stages of the climb, only to see the yellow jersey pass to Contador. He will be hard pressed to get it back now.

After the stage passed, we descended back to our bus pick up point and drove to the picturesque town of Bagneres-de-Bigore, nestled in the Pyrenees. This will be our home base for the next four nights. Its a place to die for with its backdrop of mountains, rolling green hills, fascinating villages and 1930s bohemian/boarding home feel.